Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat. (If you’re going to make bite-sized cookies, you’ll need two sheets and you should position the racks to divide the oven into thirds.)
Put the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in a large bowl and stir with a fork to mix. Make a well in the center and pour in the oil, wine and Pastis. Working with the fork (or a flexible spatula), and starting in the center of the bowl, stir the dry ingredients into the wet. Within a minute or so, you should have a soft dough. It might be pockmarked or look like a biscuit or spongy scone dough, and that’s fine. Use your hands to gently fold and knead the dough in the bowl about 4 times—the purpose is not really to knead, but to pull the dough together, so don’t overdo it.
Flour a work surface and turn the dough out onto it. Lightly flour the top of the dough or your hands and use your palms to pat the dough into a circle or square that’s ½ inch thick and about 7 inches across. Precision is not important—I’m giving you these measurements only as indicators.
Pour some sugar into a medium bowl.
Using a bench scraper or a knife, cut the dough into pieces. You can make any shape you like or many shapes, and you can make them big or small. I usually stay in the 1½- to 2-inch range, but truly anything goes. As you cut the pieces—you’ll see how spongy they are inside—drop them, a few at a time, into the bowl of sugar. Turn them in the sugar, lift them out, toss them from hand to hand to shake off the excess and then put them on the baking sheet(s), at least 1 inch apart (the cookies will puff and spread).
Bake small cookies (1 to 1½ inches) for about 30 minutes, larger cookies for 40 to 45 minutes. No matter the size, the cookies should be golden on their tops and bottoms. Rotate the sheet(s) during baking if the cookies aren’t browning evenly. The canistrelli can cool to room temperature on the baking sheet(s) or on a rack.